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Companies race for rice market supremacy

China produces over 190 million tonnes of paddy rice per year, most of which is traditionally processed at the township level by up to 100,000 mills. It is the largest staple food crop grown and consumed in any country.

Rice colorful packaging

Point of sale displays and colorful packaging are evidence of the intense competition in retail rice marketing in China.

Now urbanization, rising incomes, rural policy changes and unrelenting modernization and corporatization of grain milling are bringing accelerating change to how rice is produced, processed, distributed, marketed and consumed in the Middle Kingdom.

Once largely neglected by the giants of the country’s food industry, in the last few years rice milling has come to be viewed by them as a key driver of medium- and long-term growth.

The two largest agribusiness companies in China – China Oil and Food Corporation (COFCO) and Wilmar International – have engaged in an intensifying race to invest in bigger and more efficient mills in key rice-producing areas. At the same time, they are pouring equal amounts of financial resources into building rice brands with nationwide distribution among the largest retail supermarket chains like Carrefour and Walmart.

Singapore-based Wilmar International entered the rice sector less than three years ago but has already built six new large mills, with several more on the drawing board.

COFCO has responded by investing in new capacity of its own, both in the Northeast and south of the Yangtze, as it promotes a family of national brands. The state-owned company had a traditional role as China’s main exporter and importer when such trade was more heavily regulated and operated rice mills for this limited scope. Now it is
being asked by the highest level of government to act as a national champion in what is still considered to be an economic sector of vital strategic interest.

Rice is only the latest chapter in a rivalry between COFCO and Wilmar that extends back nearly a decade, which is considered a lifetime in the fast-moving world of Chinese business. Wilmar and COFCO already dominate production of edible oil in China. The two companies started out as partners together with U.S.-based Archer Daniels Midland in the huge build up of coastal soybean crushing capacity in China. About eight years ago they began pursuing separate investment strategies in part to comply with
Beijing’s wish for greater competition in the sector. Subsequently, Wilmar bought out ADM and engineered a merger in 2006 with Kuok Oils, Malaysia to create the largest agribusiness company in Asia, with $24 billion in 2009 sales revenues and $1.9 billion in net profits.

Industry sources report that Wilmar has been unofficially restricted from increasing its share of the edible oils industry in China. This has left enormous cash flow to invest in rice milling as well as wheat flour milling, another sector in which Wilmar is also mounting a challenge to COFCO’s traditional leadership. Publicly traded Wilmar already reports over one million tonnes of combined rice and wheat flour sales in 2009. Though a newcomer that has built its own production from scratch, Wilmar has leveraging its huge edible oils distribution network.

Industry structure

One of the new mills built by Wilmar in Heilongjiang has daily capacity of 1,200 tonnes, while the others are 600 tonnes per day, now the standard size for Wilmar’s greenfield sites. COFCO used to operate only relatively small mills, but the competition has forced it to build bigger capacity as well. Its typical new plant is now 800 tonnes per day, according to one mill equipment manufacturer, though for small-grained rice it still puts up 300 tonne-per-day mills.

Corporations with large-scale mills and national distribution of their brands may now account for 20% to 25% of the rice milled in China, according to several sources. There are around 25 such companies.

Industry insiders report that village mills doing just five or 10 tons per day have mostly disappeared in the last five years. The remaining mills, numbering in the tens of thousands, fall within a capacity range of 50 to 200 tonnes per day.

Both Wilmar and COFCO have invest ed heavily in mills in the northeast, because it is a rice surplus area. The rice zone contained within Heilongjiang, Jilin and Liaoning provinces is distinct in a number of ways from the major production areas south of the Yangtze River. Opened up to Han Chinese farmers relatively late in Chinese history during the Qing Dynasty when it was known as Manchuria, farms are larger and more mechanized. The Japonica rice variety grown there is reputed for its flavor and is gaining favor and distribution throughout China.

The northeast is home to another top player in China’s rice industry, a state-owned, diversified agribusiness concern called Beidahuang Group, with headquarters in Harbin, Heilongjiang Province. Its rice subsidiary has rapidly expanded throughout China and now operates mills in five provinces including Guangdong, Shanghai and Jiangsu, with total yearly rice milling capacity of 3 million tonnes.

Also among the top four rice millers in China is Jinjian Rice Company based in Hunan Province in central China, just south of the Yangtze River. It has the most extended geographic coverage, operating mills in Heilongjiang in the far north, Hainan in the far south, and inland in Sichuan Province. Products include rice bran oil and instant rice flour.

About 20 smaller companies with national aspirations make up a second tier in the corporate milling sector.

Rice marketing and consumption

The old rule was that northern Chinese consumed wheat-based foods like noodles and steamed rolls, and southern Chinese ate rice. For centuries, the Middle Kingdom has been the world’s biggest producer of both grains. In rural areas these eating habits may still mostly hold true, but in the country’s burgeoning cities, diets are increasingly varied.

In a supermarket in Beijing’s Chaoyang District

In a supermarket in Beijing’s Chaoyang District

Supermarket shoppers in northern cities may notice that attractively packaged rice occupies more and more shelf space. Sacks of wheat flour are less and less present, as harried urban consumers have little time to prepare wheat-based foods at home, though noodles of all types and frozen steamed rolls and dumplings are gaining space in the same supermarkets.

Urban consumers are demanding higher quality rice and paying a premium for it. Thus, branding strategies have become critical in rice marketing. There are many hundreds
of rice brands sold in China. At least 40 of them have been certified as a “famous China brand” by a national business association.

Wilmar and COFCO have applied their blanket Jinlongyu and Fulinmen brands respectively to their broad range of packaged foods, and COFCO has even named its modern new headquarters office tower in Beijing the Fulinmen Plaza.

Defying trends seen in neighboring countries that have experienced rapid income growth, in China total milled rice consumption has been holding steady at between 115 million and 120 million tonnes per year, or about 90 kilograms (kg) per capita, over the last five years, according to independent data obtained from Beijing-based agricultural consultancy BOABC. South Korea, on the other hand, has seen its per-capita rice consumption drop by over one-third to 70 kg in the last 30 years.

One explanation is that rice is gaining share of stomach against wheat-based foods. In the past 30 years, tens or even hundreds of millions of young workers have migrated from poor inland and northern provinces to work in factories in the booming southern coastal regions before returning home after a few years. Many acquired a taste for rice that has stayed with them.

Urban Chinese families eat out much of the time, and many single people in cities rarely cook for themselves. Restaurants and institutions in northern cities are more likely to serve ricethese days. Vast improvements in road and rail infrastructure have lowered transport costs to these cities from distant rice-growing areas.

Rice production and procurement

To augment rural incomes and ensure sufficient rice production, the Chinese government has repeatedly increased the floor price paid to farmers. For early long-grain Indica rice grown in the south, the 2010 floor price is 1860 yuan ($272) per tonne, and for the short-grain Japonica rice purchased from July to November it is 2,100 yuan ($307) per tonne. This has resulted in a greater share of the crop being purchased by the government authority Sinograin and added to the state reserves. China’s economic stimulus spending measures have included the construction of new rice storage facilities for state reserves.

More state procurement may be helping to speed the consolidation of milling into the hands of large corporations. In order to rotate its stocks, Sinograin sells at auction the rice it has bought from local farm commodity exchanges. The big corporate rice millers with their lower operating costs, deep pockets and sharper pencils are better positioned to outbid their smaller rivals and make cash payments for large quantities sold in this manner.

Since 2004, rice and other grain growers have benefited from direct payments and subsidies for fuel, fertilizer and seed. Also, most agricultural taxes have been eliminated. One USDA report cites an informal survey from one northern region that showed 30% of rice farmers’ profits resulted from these subsidies and payments.

Despite this government support, rice farming remains a subsistence activity for many households. By some estimates, as much 30% of paddy rice may still go to farmers’ own consumption. The households take their rice to local operators for toll milling in the informal non-cash economy.

Average rice yields in China, at 6.5 tonnes per hectare, are among the highest in the world and are still going up, though at less than 1%.

Official data is lacking, but there is strong evidence that low-quality rice, along with wheat, has been replacing expensive maize for use as animal feed in recent years. USDA estimates 11 million tonnes of early-season rice and rancid stocks from government reserves went for this purpose last year, while BOABC’s estimate is 9 million tonnes.

International trade

Thanks to government farm support to meet national food security and rural development policy goals, China’s rice market is well insulated from international influences. Per recent USDA reports, imports are limited to just 300,000 tonnes, almost entirely fragrant Thai rice that is sold to hotels and restaurants and in supermarkets to high-income consumers. Japanese companies have invested in rice mills in northeastern China to improve the quality of Japonica rice milled there. China’s rice exports now consist almost entirely of this variety going to Japan and South Korea, estimated by USDA to amount to 900,000 tonnes in the current year. BOABC’s estimates are higher at 600,000 tonnes of imports and 1.5 million tonnes of exports. Prior to the food price crisis of 2008, China encouraged exports of low-quality Indica rice to Africa through VAT rebates. But this policy was revoked to protect the domestic market from price increases.

World markets are an inconsequential sideshow for China’s rice industry. The main spectacle is the battle for domestic market domination now taking place between national champion COFCO and Asian agribusiness behemoth Wilmar.

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China Regional Revew: Grain Policy at a Crossroads

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Whether China continues its policy of food protectionism or shifts to market governance, a shift in its grain policy could alter the tides of the global grain trade.

China is the world’s number one producer of wheat and rice, and second in maize after the U.S. Its total grain output at 435 million tonnes is, like its population, just over 20% of the world’s total. These facts alone mean that even incremental changes in China’s grain economy can cause major swings in the world grain trade.

Developments in the Asian giant’s cereal production have been far from incremental in recent times. In 2003 the country experienced its fifth consecutive year of declining production. Grain output has fallen 15.7% or roughly 80 million tonnes from the peak in 1997, and is now below consumption by 50 million tonnes. The deficit is spread among all three of the major crops. Thanks to better weather and such measures as lifting of ceiling prices, reduced taxes and more subsidies to farmers, this year’s winter wheat harvest is up 3% on the year but still well short of consumption. The U.S. Department of Agriculture forecasts rice production will stage a recovery, but still fall 10 million tonnes short of consumption. Maize is expected to decline again, but at a slower rate.

So far abundant state grain reserves, accumulated in a period of surplus production in the late 1990s, have been drawn down to make up for these deficits. Consequently the effect of China’s half-decade of grain deficits has yet to be fully felt on world markets. In fact, China’s leaders apparently experienced a change of heart about the usefulness of these huge reserves of deteriorating quality, and chose to accelerate their reduction by encouraging exports at the same time as the country’s wheat and rice production began falling well below internal demand.

With its inventories depleted, China now seems to be at a crossroads in its grain policy. On the one hand, it can use massive subsidies and other measures to attempt to continue the previously sacrosanct practice of food security, which dictated that the nation should be self-sufficient for at least 95% of its grain needs. Or it can follow a new route, determined by its comparative advantages and the principals of a market economy. This route would eventually lead to much higher grain imports and make it a more fully integrated member of the international grain economy. The latter course would be more in the spirit of China’s accession to the World Trade Organization in 2001, and would likely produce the greatest economic benefit for the country overall.

GRAIN SELF-SUFFICIENCY

The question may not be whether China should, but rather if it can reasonably maintain the level of grain self-sufficiency of its recent past, indeed of its long history. It is true that the Middle Kingdom accomplished the remarkable feat of quadrupling grain production from 100 million tonnes in 1960 to more than 400 million tonnes in 2000. China’s average per hectare yields of 3.8 tonnes for wheat and 6.2 tonnes for rice are well above the world averages of 2.7 tonnes and 3.9 tonnes respectively, though China’s figures may be somewhat inflated by under-reporting of planted area.

It is also true that worldwide alarms were raised once before when Chinese wheat imports spiked to 10 million tonnes in 1994, to make up for lower harvests at a time when both per capita grain consumption and total population were climbing more rapidly than now. That year Lester Brown’s book, “Who Will Feed China,” used straight-line projections to predict that China would need to import more than 200 million tonnes of grain early in the next century. However even before the book appeared, policies had been put in place that quickly raised production to such levels that within just a few years, excessive amounts of grain were being put in reserve.

This time around, the obstacles to a recovery of grain self-sufficiency are more daunting.

First of all, China’s breakneck economic development has taken much prime agricultural land out of production. Grain sown area has declined from 90 million ha in 1998 to 76 million ha in 2003. This year all kinds of measures have been announced by the central government to halt the rapid shrinkage of agricultural land. In the case of wheat, the problems have to do as much with falling water tables from increased use and long-term drought.

RURAL POPULATION AND COMPARATIVE ADVANTAGE

Another problem for the Chinese government is that promoting grain production can detract from the more critical goal of improving the livelihoods of China’s 800 million rural residents.

The rural/urban income gap in China is among the largest in the world, and is widening. In 1997 the ratio was 2.47: 1.0, but by 2003 had risen to 3.24:1.

To help raise their incomes, China’s skillful farmers have been given more and more freedom to grow what they choose. Large numbers have been switching from wheat, corn and rice to more labor intensive and higher-value crops such as cotton, oilseeds, fruits and vegetables, and even landscape plants.

To counter such trends the central government has had to provide extra incentives to make grain growing more attractive to peasants. This includes lowering Value Added Taxes (VAT) on grain production and subsidizing some inputs.

The government has other conflicting policy goals as well when it comes to grain. The country announced in 2000 that tree cover should be increased from 7% to 15% of the country’s land area. Much of this is to be accomplished by requiring that any field on land above a certain slope should be planted with trees, whether for fruit and nut production, forestry, or some other use. Cooperating peasants are compensated with wheat flour or rice from government stores.

Now with widening grain deficits, this policy seems to have been sidelined. In 2002 there were 44 million ha returned to forest, but only 3.3 million in 2003 and just 660,000 ha in the first half of this year.

In taking these marginal, terraced lands out of grain production, China has stated its faith that its large investments in biotechnology research — second only to the U.S. — will enable it to continue raising grain yields on good crop lands.

MAIZE PRODUCTION

China’s biggest impact on world grain markets in the last five years has been through corn exports. By rapidly drawing down its maize reserves, China vaulted into the position

of number two corn exporter after the U.S. In the process, more easily financed Chinese shipments, in smaller vessels over shorter distances, were able to shut out U.S. shipments from many traditional markets in East and Southeast Asia for a number of years.

This year China suddenly called a halt to most of its maize exports. A recovery of the feed industry, devastated in preceeding years by the SARS outbreak and the avian flu, has increased demand.

Over 66% of maize is for feed use. While 13% is for human consumption, more and more corn in China is going to industrial uses as well, ranging from fuel ethanol to starch and MSG. The industrial share is already nearly 12%.

There is now speculation about when China might begin importing maize from the U.S. The consensus is that China’s domestic prices will have to go up, and international corn prices and bulk vessel rates will have to come down before such shipments become feasible.

OPAQUE RESERVES

Lifting the veil of secrecy surrounding its grain reserves is one major contribution that China could make to the transparency and stability of international markets. The government does not publish any official reserves data, supposedly for reasons of national security.

Many analysts question whether anyone in China really knows what grain stocks there are in the country.

During the previous campaign to raise production, which started almost 10 years ago, responsibility for grain self-sufficiency was delegated to the approximately 40 provincial-level governments. Grain reserves are held by the central, provincial and various levels of local government constituting thousands of reporting entities. All would have various motivations for either under- or over-reporting both the strategic and commercial reserves — or they simply may not know the real total.

In addition more and more of the grain sector is controlled by private companies, which may or may not give accurate figures to the government.

THE CASE FOR TRADE

In 2001 China was accepted into the World Trade Organization. At that time many analysts expected an immediate rise in the country’s grain imports and

a reduction of exports. China did after all have to agree to liberalize its grain trade by 2005.

Instead the opposite happened. In 2002, China’s first full year of membership, grain imports fell, and exports rose. By providing VAT rebates and authorizing special railway tariffs, China was able to sustain its corn exports.

In one important area, however, China has mostly abandoned its policy of food security and government intervention. In the briskly growing and volatile oilseeds trade, China has already integrated into world markets. China, the world’s number four producer of soybeans at 16 million tonnes, could supply most of its own needs up until 1994. Since then it has seen its imports of beans rise to a peak of over 20 million tonnes in 2003. (See related story in WG’s March issue, p26.)

China’s policymakers recognized early on that grain security could not be extended to include the soybeans needed to sustain rising meat consumption. Only the virgin farmlands of Brazil could fill that demand. But even here the country’s commitment to free trade has shown some limitations, as the government used sanitary rules to halt South American shipments in the spring of this year when the domestic crushing industry suddenly found itself overpurchased at high prices.

One thing is without doubt: despite 800 million rural dwellers, agriculture will account for a constantly shrinking part of China’s economic output. Last year for the first time, the value of imported food and agriculture products exceeded that of exported products.

And China certainly can afford to buy more grain from the outside. As agricultural economist Lester Brown likes to point out in his controversial and alarmist predictions about world food price inflation, China’s $120 billion trade surplus with the U.S. could buy the entire American wheat crop twice over.

By the same token, China’s bulging government coffers would allow it also to follow the route most often taken by richer countries, by increasingly subsidizing its farmers. In May a 25% increase to the Ministry of Agriculture’s budget was announced, raising it to 250 billion yuan (US$30 billion), with the extra funds earmarked to support grain growing.

Will China, thanks to its growing economic might, feel sufficiently at ease in the international order to open its door to more and more imported grain? This will depend in part on how quickly China’s farmers respond to the latest round of government incentives. If harvests continue to falter, China will be forced to buy increasing quantities of wheat, rice and even maize. World grain prices could hang in the balance.

China’s grain growing regions

Northeast: Jilin and Liaoning provinces are where China’s maize production is most heavily concentrated, creating huge surpluses and leading to exports, which peaked at 15 million tonnes in 2002-03. Livestock feedlots and conversion of maize to starch and fuel ethanol are being promoted. Further north in Heilongjiang province, in addition to corn, japonica rice is grown on large farms. The surplus is sometimes shipped by rail and boat to the heavily rice-consuming southern provinces, but the overburdened railways have caused bottlenecks.

North-central plain: Two-thirds of China’s 90-million-tonne wheat crop is produced on the north China plains in Hebei, Henan, Shandong and in parts of Anhui and Jiangsu provinces. This winter wheat requires irrigation in what has become a severely drought prone region threatened on its northern and western margins by desertification. Throughout this wheat zone, falling water tables are drying up wells and leading to water shortages and increased soil salinity. Higher value crops, such as cotton, are competing with wheat for irrigation water from already depleted aquifers.

South and southeast: The staple crop of all the provinces on or south of the Yangtze river is rice, making up most of China’s 120-million-tonne annual harvest. Wheat consumption in this region is only a few kilograms per person but is going up as wheat-based convenience foods make inroads on traditional diets. Especially in the booming coastal provinces of Guangdong, Fujian and Zhejiang, new industrial parks, housing developments, expanded road networks needed to accommodate China’s burgeoning car culture, and even golf courses and theme parks have contributed to the loss of more and more paddy land. Guangdong and Shanghai are major markets for corn from the north.

Sichuan province: This is China’s most populated province with 115 million residents. It covers a huge basin on the middle reaches of the Yangtze River and has for centuries been a net supplier of rice to the rest of the country. The Three Gorges dam has improved navigation, allowing easier transport of rice in larger vessels down river and feed grains and oilseeds upriver. The province is the birthplace of two of China’s top four feed milling companies.

West: China’s population density thins as one moves north and west from Shanxi, Shaanxi, Ningxia and Gansu to Inner Mongolia, Qinghai, Xinjiang and Tibet. Grain growing becomes more of a subsistence activity and livestock husbandry is the main rural livelihood. Mutton production has gone up 62% in just five years thanks to big increases in sheep (20%) and goat (32%) herds, now estimated at 136 million and 162 million head. This has led to severe overgrazing in this semi-arid region, contributing to desertification. To avert environmental catastrophe, livestock numbers will have to be reduced, or more feed grains will need to be used.

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